What is Hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation is uneven skin pigmentation caused by triggers such as UV radiation from sun exposure, ageing, hormonal influences, genetics or skin trauma that stimulate excessive melanin (pigment) production. The most common forms of hyperpigmentation include freckles, sunspots, post-injury pigmentation and melasma.

Hyperpigmentation

What Are Main Forms of Hyperpigmentation?

Freckles or
Ephelides

Forms Freckles 1 - Anova Skin Clinic

Small, flat, pigmented spots commonly found on the face, arms and other sun-exposed areas, which typically fade slightly during winter.

Causes: UV radiation & genetics

Sunspots or
Solar Lentigines

Forms Sunspots 1 - Anova Skin Clinic

Flat, pigmented spots, usually bigger than freckles, common in adults 40+ on the face, arms, hands and other sun-exposed areas.

Causes: Cumulative UV radiation & natural skin ageing process

Post-Injury Pigment or
Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation

Forms Post Injury 2 - Anova Skin Clinic

Skin darkening that develops in areas of skin trauma, including pimples, skin picking, cuts, burns, ingrown hairs, eczema or psoriasis.

Causes: Skin trauma or injury with prolonged skin inflammation

Melasma or
Chloasma

Forms Melasma 1 - Anova Skin Clinic

Complex and chronic skin condition causing often symmetrical brown or grey-brown pigmented patches, most commonly on the cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and chin.

Causes: UV radiation, hormonal fluctuations, genetics, and visible and infrared light.

Skin Diagram of Melasma Types

Hyperpigmentation skin diagram showing melasma types

Melasma occurs in three forms depending on the depth of pigment within the skin: –  epidermal melasma, where excess melanin is confined to the upper skin layers and typically appears as well-defined brown patches; dermal melasma, where pigment is deposited deeper within the dermis and presents as less defined, grey-brown patches; and mixed melasma, the most common form, involving both epidermal and dermal pigment. The depth of melasma directly influences how it responds to treatment – epidermal melasma generally responds better and faster, while dermal and mixed melasma require more treatments and a carefully tailored approach to achieve results and minimise the risk of pigment relapse.

  • UV Radiation – UVA and UVB radiation directly stimulate melanocytes to overproduce melanin, driving uneven pigmentation. UVA penetrates glass and cloud cover year-round while UVB fluctuates with season, time of day, and location – both contributing to hyperpigmentation.
  • Natural Ageing – melanocyte activity becomes increasingly irregular with age, leading to uneven melanin distribution and localised pigmentation spots.
  • Skin Trauma – prolonged inflammation from pimples, skin picking, cuts, burns, and inflammatory skin conditions can trigger excess melanin production at the site of injury.
  • Genetics – certain genes determine how strongly melanocytes respond to triggers, increasing predisposed individuals’ risk of hyperpigmentation.
  • Hormones – hormonal fluctuations from contraception, pregnancy, hormone replacement therapy, and thyroid dysfunction can trigger excess melanin production, particularly melasma.
  • Medication – certain medications including tetracycline antibiotics, antimalarials, and chemotherapy increase skin sensitivity to light and trigger uneven pigmentation.
  • Visible & Infrared Light – both can independently stimulate melanocytes and worsen pigmentation, particularly melasma, even when UV exposure is avoided.
  • Heat – repeated heat exposure from hot environments or devices can trigger excess melanin production and worsen melasma independently of UV exposure.

How To Prevent or Minimise Hyperpigmentation?

Summary Hyperpigmentation SPF 50 - Anova Skin Clinic

DAILY SPF 50+

  • Broad Spectrum – provides high and broad protection against UVA and UVB radiation, both of which contribute to hyperpigmentation.
  • Daily & All-Year-Round – used indoors and outdoors even on cloudy days as UVA penetrates glass and cloud cover year-round.
  • Tinted SPF 50+ – contains not only UV filters but also Iron Oxides to block visible light and near-infrared light, which can contribute to worsening of melasma.
Skin Ageing Daily Skincare - Anova Skin Clinic

DAILY SKINCARE

  • Appropriate & Consistent Skincare Actives – Retinoids, Niacinamide, Vitamin C, Tranexamic Acid, Resorcinol Derivatives (Hexylresorcinol) collectively address the main hyperpigmentation drivers.
Summary Hyperpigmentation Sun Avoidance - Anova Skin Clinic

SUN AVOIDANCE

  • When the UV index is high, sun exposure should be avoided or shade sought where possible. This is especially important between 10am and 4pm, during summer, and in locations closer to the equator.
Summary Hyperpigmentation Protective Clothing - Anova Skin Clinic

SUN PROTECTIVE CLOTHING

  • UPF 50+ Wide-brim Hat – made of fabric with a certified Ultraviolet Protection Factor of 50+ and a brim of 7.5cm or wider to reduce direct UV radiation exposure to the face, ears and neck.
  • UPF 50+ Clothing – made of fabric with a certified Ultraviolet Protection Factor of 50+ to protect frequently sun-exposed areas such as the neck, chest, arms and legs.
Summary Hyperpigmentation Trigger Management - Anova Skin Clinic

TRIGGER MANAGEMENT

  • ⚠️Identifying and managing triggers where possible – including medication, heat, and hormonal fluctuations – and discussing options with a medical doctor is advisable.

What Are Well-Researched Skincare Ingredients For Hyperpigmentation?

INGREDIENT & ACTIONInhibits Melanin ProductionBlocks Melanin TransferIncreases Cell TurnoverAntioxidant ProtectionReduces Skin InflammationStrengthens Skin Barrier
Retinoids (Retinol, Retinal, Retinoic Acid)*+++++++++++
Niacinamide++++++++++++++
L-Ascorbic Acid
(Vitamin C)
++++++++
Tranexamic Acid++++++
Resorcinol Derivatives
(Hexylresorcinol & 4-Butylresorcinol)
++++++
Lactic & Mandelic Acid (AHAs)+++++++++
Kojic Acid+++++
Hydroquinone** (prescription)+++
Grading: +++ Strong action     ++ Moderate action     + Mild action     – Not applicable
*Topical retinoids range in strength and delivery system — retinoic acid, a prescription retinoid, delivers faster results but carries a higher irritation potential.
**Hydroquinone is prescription-only in Australia and other countries and long-term use carries risks of pigment relapse.
INGREDIENT & ACTIONInhibits Melanin ProductionBlocks Melanin
Transfer
Increases Cell TurnoverAntioxidant ProtectionReduces Skin InflammationStrengthens Skin Barrier
Glabridin (from Liquorice Root Extract)+++++++++
Resveratrol++++++++
Silymarin (Milk Thistle)+++++++
Bakuchiol++++++++++++++
Gluconolactone & Lactobionic Acid (PHAs)++++++++
Alpha-Arbutin++++
Cysteamine+++++++
Grading:  +++ Strong action     ++ Moderate action     + Mild action     – Not applicable